Care instructions

YOUR ANICHINI LINENS WILL LAST FOR YEARS IF THEY ARE WELL CARED FOR.
PROPER CLEANING AND STORAGE WILL PROLONG THE LIFE OF TEXTILES, AND ENSURE THAT YOUR LINENS RETAIN THEIR HEIRLOOM QUALITY.


“We gave up a lot when polyester was introduced. We moved away from natural fibers to ones that were produced with petroleum based products. We lost the knowledge of how to clean and care for natural fibers. This “tribal knowledge” was handed down over the centuries and lost in two generations.

One of the most common questions we are asked is "can I wash this?" We have forgotten that EVERYTHING was once washed. There was no drip dry and there were no dry cleaners. But top on my list: we gave up the human satisfaction that comes from living with, and wearing, natural fibers. Natural fibers do not hold odors, stains can be removed more easily, they last longer, BUT they take more care.
The last 50 years has been dedicated to doing things faster but not better.”


- Susan Dollenmaier, Founder, ANICHINI

 


SHEETING

Machine wash in warm (not hot) water on gentle cycle. You may use any mild detergent or soap. Use enzyme reactive stain removers only. Do not use chlorine, bleach, stain removers or detergents with lighteners. Never pour detergent or soap directly on your textiles. Either pour it in when the tub is full or dilute it. Do not use fabric softeners. These only coat the fibers and make them "appear" to be soft. Use one cup of white vinegar in the rinse water to remove any traces of soap and leave fabrics smelling fresh.

The ideal way to dry textiles is air only. A line or rod is perfect, but you can use a railing or shower rod as well. If you must use a dryer, use the lowest setting and never, never dry completely. During the last few minutes of a dryer cycle the fabric overheats and dries out, making it brittle and lifeless over time. Always remove them from the dryer while still damp.

This is an ideal time to press them, but if that is not possible, let them air dry. (You can also "store" laundered linens in a plastic bag in the refrigerator or freezer before air drying or pressing.) You can even air dry sheeting by throwing them over a bed. If you smooth the wrinkles out at this point, the pressing becomes even easier. Press on the underside, using a well-padded ironing board and a clean iron. Do not press in creases because this will also cause wear over time. When pressing monograms or embellishments, place face down on a terry towel so that the decoration will "pop" out.

Finally, simply fold them neatly. One of the more gratifying things to have in the home is a beautiful linen closet. Never store sheeting in plastic. If you must cover them, use an old piece of sheeting or pillow case. Storage should be dry and away from light with some air circulation.

TABLE LINENS

Follow the sheeting instructions.

For particular cleaning, try these tips: If wine is spilled, immediately splash seltzer water on the spot and place a dry towel underneath it. For food stains, not much can be done until after the meal. When the meal is finished, "spot" the stains with diluted mild detergent and fill the washing machine with warm water. Now let them soak all night long. In the morning, turn the machine on and this usually will take care of it. If you still have a problem, then soak another 24 hours in enzyme reactive stain removers. Dry and press.

For candle wax, scrape off as much as you can only when it is hard. Place a brown paper bag over the wax and iron on top of this, changing positions frequently until all wax is absorbed. You should then "spot" that place with diluted detergent and follow the soaking instructions above.

COTTON AND LINEN (NON-TERRY) TOWELS

Treat the same as table linens. If there are fringes, gather them together in your hand, bend in half and secure with a rubber band. This will keep them from getting tangled.

TERRY TOWELS AND ROBES

Follow instructions for sheetings except you can dry them completely in dryer. You may have some shrinkage.

COTTON COVERLETS AND MATELASSES

These are tricky! We recommend professional water cleaning and can suggest some very good companies. If you decide to wash them yourself, we do not accept responsibility.

But for you adventurous ones, here's how to do it: Wash them using sheeting instructions, but they must be air dried and blocked. Blocking means stretching it back into shape. You will need a large surface area - some people use a bed. You will still have some shrinkage, but our coverlets are made large enough to accept this. Taking this on is a big task. A wet coverlet is heavy and difficult to handle. Silk/wool and ornamented products should be cleaned professionally. Again, we can offer recommendations.

A NOTE ABOUT MERINO WOOL AND CASHMERE

Merino is wool of the smallest micron produced by sheep (only angora and cashmere are of smaller micron sizes) classifying them as "soft" wools. Soft wools have softly twisted yarns and surface nap. Because of the surface nap - fibers that stand above the surface of the woven/knit fabric - pilling can occur. This occurs from conditions of use but can also be exacerbated by the mechanical action of any care process. The pills can be removed with the use of several different devices on the market ranging from sweater stones to professional depillars. This is something to be discussed with your dry cleaning service.